​Wine History — As Told Through The Green Grapevine
California winemakers have paid attention to their environmental impact since the 1990s, but each vineyard was on its own until recently. With no unifying force, wineries across the state of California were staying mum about the best ways to produce green wine. In an effort to create delicious wine and avoid damaging the planet, the California Association of Winegrape Growers and the Wine Institute created the California Sustainable Winegrowing Program in 2002 (Sustainable Winegrowing).



As the first green winemaking venture of its kind, the Sustainable Winegrowing Program set its sights on the three “E’s” of sustainability — environmentally sound, socially equitable, and economically feasible (Sustainable Viticulture and Winery Practices). With an eye toward the future, the SWP created a 490-page workbook to help wineries in their quest for sustainability (Wine Institute). While the workbook is simply a set of guidelines to improve winemaking practices, California winemakers have taken a liking to it. According to Chris Savage, the senior director of global environmental affairs for E.&J. Gallo Winery:



     Sustainability by itself is just a word. What gives it meaning are the programs and people behind it that drive change, improve the
     environment and produce the best quality grapes and wines in the world. The [California Sustainable Wine Association] program
     accomplishes all of this and more. (Sustainability Report 2009)



More than 1,500 California wineries and vineyards currently take part in the continuously expanding SWP (Sustainable Winegrowing). In the program, winegrowers assess their own wineries and vineyards online, receive information about new green trends, discuss sustainable practices within the industry, attend workshops, and reevaluate their practices (Sustainable Winegrowing). No one is forcing those in the California wine industry to sign up for this self-assessment. And no one is forcing them to stick to these green principles. Instead, many believe the SWP offers the best way to improve one’s company and reduce one’s negative impact on the environment.



Since the program’s introduction in 2002, three progress reports have detailed the industry’s accomplishments. The latest California Wine Community Sustainability Report in 2009 found that there was a 60% improvement in 170 of the 283 workbook criteria since 2006 (Sustainability Report 2009). Though many California wineries follow an honor system in their self-reports, the SWP knew it needed a more legitimate seal of approval. Consumers are becoming more intelligent about their purchases, and simply attaching “green” to a label is no longer enough. As of 2010, the CSWA introduced a third-party certification program, Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing. The certification program verifies which wineries and vineyards meet the industry’s current green standards and will continue to adapt to the field’s best practices (Sustainable Winegrowing). While there is no official green wine category in your nearest supermarket, wineries and vineyards can now put themselves in an elite field as “CCSW-certified” (Sustainable Winegrowing).



​Key Features — Not All Green Grapes Are The Same
Though green wine is not a new concept and there certainly isn’t any wine that sparkles with a shade of forest green, many people wonder what exactly is green wine. Just as two wineries aren’t the same, there isn’t just one type of eco-friendly wine. Winemakers who opt to produce a green wine must first decide if they would like to use organic, sustainable, or biodynamic practices.



Organic is a frequently used term nowadays, but what exactly does it mean to make organic wine? Organic wine can be further broken down into “certified organic,” “made with organic ingredients,” and “some organic ingredients.” For a bottle of wine to be labeled “certified organic,” the wine can’t have any added sulfites, must be produced from organically grown grapes, and provide information about which national agency accredited the wine (Organic Consumers). Frey Wine of Mendocino County, California, has produced certified organic wine for more than 30 years, but it is still only one of a few winemakers who can claim that title (Eco Hearth). To make the process even more difficult, the National Organic Standards Board does not accept some of the commonly used ingredients in many wines. Reading the label on a bottle of wine might show that it’s simply made from organic grapes.



While national organizations determine whether or not wine is organic, regional organizations have a say in sustainable wine. Sustainable wine does not only have to be environmentally friendly, but it must also be socially and economically responsible (Eco Hearth). There is no official governing body to determine the sustainability status of every wine. Sustainability in Practice, however, is one organization that decides which California wineries and vineyards meet a set of specific standards. According to the SIP certification, “California growers must farm in a way that protects both natural and human resources” (SIP Certified). For example, Ampelos Cellars of Lompoc, California, received SIP certification for using 100% solar power on its vineyard (Eco Hearth).



Though not as recognizable to the average wine consumer, biodynamic wine has been around since the 1920s. Biodynamic winemaking goes beyond the simple ingredients and social impacts to include more spiritual forces. For example, winemakers who use biodynamics often match their harvesting to specific positions of planets or rely on animals to fertilize the land (Eco Hearth). At Demetria Estate in Los Olivos, California, the owner brings in local school children to dance among the vines and farms according to the phases of the moon (Eco Hearth). People might chuckle at the idea to link wine with more spiritual powers. However, more than 450 certified biodynamic winemakers around the world insist that the practices improve the wine’s quality. The close connection between the vineyard and the surrounding environment may just add that extra flavor.



​The Future — Room For Green Growth
Sustainable winemaking certainly has room for improvement. Though 68% of California vineyards and 62% of California wineries have adopted the SWP, the U.S. winemaking industry is not seeing an overall impact. According to IBISWorld, “eco-friendly movements have not driven industry growth yet; consumers will continue to seek quality regardless of origin” (IBISWorld). California winemakers need to change this rooted mindset. The certification program is a step in the right direction. Now, the California winemaking industry must make a case to encourage others to join the initiative. If that means more education or giving tours of sustainable wineries and vineyards, do it. Before the green winemaking industry can spread to other parts of the U.S., it must first dominate in California.



Looking into the future — clarity will be key. The SWP needs to better define performance indicators. A clearer explanation of how to fertilize land without pesticides will allow winemakers to meet and exceed these benchmarks. Right now, it’s all about getting rid of any confusion. And let’s reward those who make green wine properly. Incentives make people run faster and jump higher, so they can certainly encourage winemakers to improve their green practices.



The green winemaking industry needs to walk before it can run. First stop: Conquer California. Up next: Take over the U.S.

 

 

Works Cited



California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance. CSWA, 2012. Web. <http://www.sustainablewinegrowing.org/>.



California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance. California Wine Community Sustainability Report 2009. Rep. California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance, 2009. Web. <http://www.sustainablewinegrowing.org/docs/2009%20Sustainability%20Report_ExecutiveSummary.pdf>.



"Clearing up the Confusion about Organic Wine - Organic Consumers Association."Organic Consumers Association. 2012. Web. <http://www.organicconsumers.org/Organic/OrganicWine.cfm>.



IBISWorld. Rep. no. 31213. Aug. 2012. Web. <http://clients.ibisworld.com.libproxy.usc.edu/industryus/productsandmarkets.aspx?indid=289>.



Kay, Tonya. "Organic, Biodynamic and Sustainable Eco Wines." EcoHearth. Jan. 2012. Web. <http://www.ecohearth.com/eco-blogs/clean-and-green-everyday/>.

"The Wine Institute." - The Advocacy Group for the California Wine Industry. 2012. Web. <http://www.wineinstitute.org/>.



Zucca, Gary. Sustainable Viticulture and Winery Practices in California: What Is It, and Do Customers Care? Wine in the World: Markets, Tourism and Globalization Second International Conference on Economics, Management Sciences and History of Wine, June 2008. Web. http://www.zuccawines.com/assets/client/File/Sustainable%20Viticulture%20and%20Winery%20Practices%20in%20California_1.doc%20[Compatibility%20Mode].pdf>.